Classic Fashion, Evolution and Combat

There are classic fashion pieces that remain unchanged for decades. Small details and colors may change, however the classic garment is so because its function and design are not easily improved. Like the human body (unchanged but for size and color) a classic remains constant. Garments established to cover, adorn and protect the body can evolve. Examples of classic garments include military inspired garments such as the Navy pea coat and the trench coat.

Like classic garments, the essentials have roots in utility with symbolic function or essence of original purpose. Denim Jeans are a classic garment icon as well as symbolic dress of American culture. Roots in India, the indigo and cotton fabric for dungarees

The American blue jean is made from denim; cotton twill

 

Tailored Garments

Tailoring garments includes cutting and sewing fabric pieces to fit the body. The concept can be thought to exist in ancient cultures that would have used animal skins, bones and sinew as well as cutting tools. People could survive in a variety of climates as well as be mobile wearing trousers and tunic forms of clothing. This idea has traveled through history, surviving and propelled in the mechanization of sewing during the industrial revolution.

Here are some examples of tailored garments. First is a costume I created by re-drafting a commercial pattern to emulate the Bustle fashion of the 1880's.  A corset as well as additional undergarments were sewn to wear beneath the skirt and jacket.  There are many layers to this costume; quite uncomfortable.  I was able to redraft the commercial pattern via help from images, patterns, and drafting notes for 19th century garments. These patterns were often published in books and magazines such as Godey's Lady Book.

Next is a vintage 1950's dress; a Tony Karen. I found this dress in a thrift store. Too small to fit me, it holds important information about the construction of garments from this era. Vintage as well as reprints of vintage sewing patterns can be acquired to recreate and understand how twentieth century tailored clothes were/are assembled.

The word tailored connotes the idea of a tailor in his shop cutting a suit for a businessman. This is a surviving method of tailored fashion, the military uniform is another. This Royal Naval Uniform 1864, can be seen at the National Maritime Museum. Trousers and jacket are cut to fit a man's body. 

Draped Garments

The known draping of textiles over the body dates back to ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman times. This classical style preserved in stone statuary and images on pottery has influenced fashion through history. In contemporary times and very recently,  we can see this influence in gowns worn on the red carpet in California at the Oscars. The idea of wrapping the body in cloth is not limited to the Mediterranean nor Hollywood. Cultures in East Africa and the Indian subcontinent wrap and drape the body in fabric. 

Here are some examples of drapes garments. First is my own screen printed khanga. Worn in parts of Kenya, Congo and Uganda, the khanga often features political images and commentary as well as religious symbols and written taunts or blessings. The khanga, One might say has a similar function in society as the screen printed cotton T-shirt in the United States.

Next is the dhoti, a rectangular piece of cotton wrapped around the waist. Worn by men in regions of India, the dhoti may feature stripes and edge designs woven into the fabric. Cool and comfortable, this might become an ethnic fashion trend with the recently awarded Best Picture 2009.  

An evening gown, draped by Madame Gres seen in the Metropolitan museum is my third example for the concept of draping. This example is from 1965 and has the look of the Indian sari. The long fabric over an under-structure has the characteristic folds and pleats of the draped gowns for which Madame Gres is known. 

Social Functions of Dress

Belonging to a group or organization is often a display of an emblem, crest or logo over the left chest of a garment. For men this is often a T-shirt, polo-type shirt, sport coat or jacket. 

Organizations in a society have ceremonies that require particular dress. The graduation ceremony requires a robe and sometimes a hat or hood. This graduate studies robe is nearly unchanged in design form those worn in the first universities in Europe, hundreds of years ago.

Protection and decoration, ceremony and distinction for group members can be seen in many garments. Different garments for men and for women will embrace the attributes for the different functions. The neck-tie worn by men in western cultures has specific significants when worn with attractive and contrasting shirt colors. The narrow piece of silk or wool allows for and directs one to look the face to the genitals of the wearer. This paisley pattern was chosen for its specific sexual connotation. 

Social Functions of Dress

We dress primarily to decorate and adorn our bodies to change our appearance, however there are other social functions for dress in cultures. From my closet, I find six examples.

For protection from the elements we cover our bodies with the skin, hair and feathers of other creatures, taking advantage of nature's design. A down filled vest covers the body core. The arms and legs are free to move about. 

The surface decoration of a textile becomes the decoration of the body. The embroidery and mirrors on this thin cotton tunic and pant form Pakistan decorates the neck, chest, wrist and ankles of the wearer.

Articles worn by women often differ from those worn by men. In most cultures, there is women's dress. There are specific terms to describe the garments for the different genders. An example is this Indian sari, made of silk with a cotton petticoat and blouse.

Knits

My Aron sweater is also warm. Knitted of marino wool, it dries quickly and blocks the wind.

This type of sweater is worn by Irish fisherman. Mine looks great with comfortable jeans.

Fabrics Matters

Researching textiles is as simple as looking into your closet. My acquisitions done by texture and touch, are presented in a collage to explain a bit of history.  

First, my "baby llama" swing coat. From south America, llama and alpaca are camel cousins. There soft hair is wonderful for spinning and felting, knitting and weaving.  People of Peru have known this for hundreds of years. Often mixed with other wool for garments, the fabric is very warm. This swing coat was a steel at $5.00 (585.00 for a new one)