Saturday, May 2, 2009

Street Trends influence Designers

A political climate and youth expressing their individuality with a desire to belong to a group brings street fashion to the view of the public. Looks that differ from mainstream fashions and social roles, street trends become a symbol for the group of young people. Each trend can be associated with a philosophy, with art, literature or music. The trend defines a group of young people. Young people reject the popular fashion in order to express individuality but at the same time, show acceptance of a group. 
The mixing of music, film inspiration and underground attitude influences the street fashion. Social trends and artistic endeavors blend into expression in dress.
On the runway, fashion is influenced by social and political forces and street fashion is reinterpreted, following the path back to the street. When the cycle is completed, the street trend shifts to something else because the need for individuality is great.
Today there is a trend in society for people working closer to the earth in their manner and style: organic and green. Recycling clothes is part of this trend; cutting apart old clothes, styling and layering whatever is available, creating cohesion with color or simply black and white.  


Street Trends influence


The current economy is being compared to the Great Depression of 1930's. Depression Chic is creeping onto the runway. The look of "Americana" is  derived from cotton farm dresses, Amish attire, somber colors, suspenders, and brim hats.
The Folkies play music inspired by Old Time or original country music of the nineteenth century. Folk music is associated to Hippies for the influence of 1960's music, however Folkies play original works and dress in depression era looks and keep short hair. 
In Appalachia, the Old Time music and hand sewn garments can be viewed as street fashion of mountain roads and coal mine rails. 

Street Trends


Dress and music again work together and influence the runway. Hip Hop from New York and later Los Angeles is recognized by oversized proportions, hoodies, and sneakers. Low slouch at the waist for pants and ball caps worn backwards also defines the look.
Seen in the 1970's, Hip Hop music include MC-ing (rapping and beatbox) and DJ-ing (repeated music motifs with fingers on the turntable). Breakdancing is also associated to Hip Hop. Clothes consist of red, black, and green, kufis (or fez), loose running suits, Nike sneakers and Starter Jackets.
On the runway, hats and short down coats, hooded sweatsuits and low waist or full cut jeans and cargo pants provide a hip-hop feel.

Street Trends



1970's and 1980's once again hold associations with music and fashion.
Disco with synthetic fabrics, jewel colors and jumpsuits help the dancer with soft fabrics and flexible fit. The white suit worn for the film Saturday Night Fever, is associated with Disco.
Jewel tones & white suits on the runway provide a 1970's street influence. 
Punk with heavy boots and outrageous hair styles influences the runway. An anti-establishment trend in Britain that influenced the early 1980's fashion, Punk itself is influenced by glam rock, skinheads, rude boys, greasers and mods. Custom jackets (studs, pins, or chains), worn t-shirts, multiple belts, and tule skirts with jeans are punk.
Vivienne Westwood and her association with Malcolm Mclaren, fuel Punk. Her mini-crini (1985) is said to be inspired by ballet, Petroshka

Street Trends




The 1960's and 1970's include Beatnik, Mod and Hippie street fashion.
Anti-war movement and flower power brings the hippie look as youth on the California coast embrace looks from a number of eras and cultures. Long hair and denim jeans also define this trend. Once again music, is associated with fashion (Bob Dylan and Allen Ginsberg are friends).
An anti-materialism philosophy, poetry and literature (Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg), bring together the Greenwich Beat Generation. Serious and austere, the look includes eye wear, beret, and dark colors.
In Britain, Mary Quant opens a boutique on the Kings Road; the Bazaar. A desire to express sophistication is achieved with Modernism and minimal dress: the mini dress is created. 
These fashion trends can be seen on the runway decades later. Long flowing and  printed dresses, sandals, vests and patches; dark glasses, beret, tall boots and turtleneck; very short skirt, clean lines, and primary colors, can evoke recognition of these street fashions.

Street Trends


In the 1950's Teddy Boy fashion included bubble gum colors paired with black. Drainpipe trouser and long jackets, neck ties, and waistcoats as well as triple layered shoes. Girls wore tall hair and full skirts. The look is associated with Rock-n-Roll music of the time.
However, look is derived from King Edward in clothes created by Savile Row tailors in Britain.
On the runway, designers are influenced by this look. The Rock-a-Billie influence can be also noticed in the TopShop design.
Musicians decades later still bring it to life.

Street trends


The zoot suit of the 1940's was worn mostly by Latino population features a full legged trouser with pegged cuffs and long, wide shouldered jacket.
Cab Calloway wears a zoot suit for the 1943 film Stormy Weather, however he is typically photographed in all white tails. In areas of the midwestern United States, where populations are African descent, the zoot suit is sill visible.
On the runway, designers are inspired by this look. Emanuel  Ungaro and Ruffian are two examples with the pairing of full legged trouser and long jacket; note the choice for the lapel.  
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Street Trends

Street trends such as hippie, punk, and hip hop are used as inspiration on the runway reversing the elite designer to the street fashion flow.
Street fashion is politically motivated in a desire to make a social statement, create a group identity, or be an active participant in adorning the body.