Genealogy of the corset continued

The corsetry exists today in the form of padded, boned, close fitting or laced bodices. Diane Kruger is wearing a gown by Yves Saint Laurent: blue skirt connected to fitted black bodice.

Queen Elizabeth wore the corset as undergarment during her reign 1558-1603; Elizabethan. Her form is said to be immortalized in the padding and boning of the Effigy Garment (corset). 

During the time of Marie Antoinette (reign 1774-1792), the corset along with court dress is changed by the attitudes and political views that came about during the French Revolution. The front lacing corselet is worn over a chemise by women in the countryside. The stay and paniers worn by the upper class is rejected when Classical style returned and the Empire silhouette became fashionable.

In 1810, the corset returns - this time it is short and the corset evolves through variations and changes. Innovations and technology influence the structure, shape and availability of the undergarment. An hour glass feminine shape is desired and achieved. The female form is confined with flattened or shapely bust. 

A dramatic noted variation occurs with the desire for the S-silhouette near the beginning of the twentieth century. The corset then drops to the waist when Flappers rejected Victorian fashion for flat bust and straight silhouette of the 1920's.

The use of lycra and plastics change the corset. Attitudes about femininity and the role of woman in society influences the use and desirability of the corset. In the 1980's, designer Jean-Paul Gaultier and Pop-icon Madonna bring the undergarment in its form to be a primary garment for the torso.

On Broadway, artist and costume designer Julie Taymor designed the look for the Lion King around the idea of the corset. Both male and female roles wear corsetry. The costumes are integrated with puppetry and the structure and support of corsets is an aide. 

www.obit-mag.com

www.pbs.org

www.reconstructinghistory.com

www.fitnyc.edu

www.brooklynmuseum.org

www.arthist.cla.umn.edu

www.condenast.co.uk

www.metmuseum.org

20,000 Years of Fashion, A History of Costume and Personal Adornment. Francios Boucher. Harry N Abrams, New York 1965, 1987

Classic Fashion, Evolution and Combat

There are classic fashion pieces that remain unchanged for decades. Small details and colors may change, however the classic garment is so because its function and design are not easily improved. Like the human body (unchanged but for size and color) a classic remains constant. Garments established to cover, adorn and protect the body can evolve. Examples of classic garments include military inspired garments such as the Navy pea coat and the trench coat.

Like classic garments, the essentials have roots in utility with symbolic function or essence of original purpose. Denim Jeans are a classic garment icon as well as symbolic dress of American culture. Roots in India, the indigo and cotton fabric for dungarees

The American blue jean is made from denim; cotton twill

 

Tailored Garments

Tailoring garments includes cutting and sewing fabric pieces to fit the body. The concept can be thought to exist in ancient cultures that would have used animal skins, bones and sinew as well as cutting tools. People could survive in a variety of climates as well as be mobile wearing trousers and tunic forms of clothing. This idea has traveled through history, surviving and propelled in the mechanization of sewing during the industrial revolution.

Here are some examples of tailored garments. First is a costume I created by re-drafting a commercial pattern to emulate the Bustle fashion of the 1880's.  A corset as well as additional undergarments were sewn to wear beneath the skirt and jacket.  There are many layers to this costume; quite uncomfortable.  I was able to redraft the commercial pattern via help from images, patterns, and drafting notes for 19th century garments. These patterns were often published in books and magazines such as Godey's Lady Book.

Next is a vintage 1950's dress; a Tony Karen. I found this dress in a thrift store. Too small to fit me, it holds important information about the construction of garments from this era. Vintage as well as reprints of vintage sewing patterns can be acquired to recreate and understand how twentieth century tailored clothes were/are assembled.

The word tailored connotes the idea of a tailor in his shop cutting a suit for a businessman. This is a surviving method of tailored fashion, the military uniform is another. This Royal Naval Uniform 1864, can be seen at the National Maritime Museum. Trousers and jacket are cut to fit a man's body. 

Draped Garments

The known draping of textiles over the body dates back to ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman times. This classical style preserved in stone statuary and images on pottery has influenced fashion through history. In contemporary times and very recently,  we can see this influence in gowns worn on the red carpet in California at the Oscars. The idea of wrapping the body in cloth is not limited to the Mediterranean nor Hollywood. Cultures in East Africa and the Indian subcontinent wrap and drape the body in fabric. 

Here are some examples of drapes garments. First is my own screen printed khanga. Worn in parts of Kenya, Congo and Uganda, the khanga often features political images and commentary as well as religious symbols and written taunts or blessings. The khanga, One might say has a similar function in society as the screen printed cotton T-shirt in the United States.

Next is the dhoti, a rectangular piece of cotton wrapped around the waist. Worn by men in regions of India, the dhoti may feature stripes and edge designs woven into the fabric. Cool and comfortable, this might become an ethnic fashion trend with the recently awarded Best Picture 2009.  

An evening gown, draped by Madame Gres seen in the Metropolitan museum is my third example for the concept of draping. This example is from 1965 and has the look of the Indian sari. The long fabric over an under-structure has the characteristic folds and pleats of the draped gowns for which Madame Gres is known.